Skills

Shooting is a perishable skill. New guns shoot differently. You go through ammo faster with 17-round mags than with 7-round mags.

I have decided that I will be using my Sig P365-XMacro as my competition gun. According to my math, this means I need to be able to hit a 10″ round target at 65 ft.

Miggy was telling us a recent zinger. Mrs. Miggy asked him why he could hit steel at 40 yards with his Sig P365-RS but couldn’t hit the hamper with his socks at five feet.

Now 40 yards is 120 ft., and with a shorter barrel than what’s on my XMacro and with smaller grips. I should be able to hit steel at 60 ft consistently, right?

Wrong.

As far as I can tell, I’m pulling low and left consistently. Time for more practice with the dry fire system. Remove ammo from the room. Set up the Mantis; make sure the pistol is safe. Rack, holster. Draw, take sight, press trigger. Make sure the pretty little dot is where it is supposed to be.

For what I took to be 8″ steel, maybe 6″ at around 15-20 yards, I was aiming at the right edge slightly above center to consistently knock plates over.

I did notice that I wasn’t centering the front sight correctly at times. I also noticed that when I had the pad of my finger flat on the trigger, I did better. And finally, when I was carefully pressing the trigger, making sure not to jerk, things went better.

Printing on paper showed low left, which I was able to correct to center center, but only by changing my point of aim.

I believe that my old results were a result of correcting point of aim, not in correcting my shooting.

The problem with that is that the point of aim changes depending on distance. What works at 30 ft will not work at 60 ft and I’m not that good at judging distance, yet.

I’ve been carrying my Sig P365-RS since my holster from We The People Holsters arrived. It is a very comfortable holster.

The model I purchased was the “Freedom” system. This consists of a form-fitted shell for your firearm and another for a magazine. These shells have many holes in them for mounting the belt loops. They claim over 2500 different ways to attach your shell to your body.

I’m to fat to do the appendix carry, but they have systems that work for that. They have tuck belt loops that clip over your belt and allow you to tuck your shirt between your firearm and your belt. It looks nice but is not how I do it.

My preferred method is inside the waistband (IWB) with the tuck style loops.

Strong hand at the 4 O’clock position or even the 5 o’clock.

For true concealed carry, I love it. It rides a little deep, so you have to be aware that you aren’t going to have a great grip when you start your draw, but the holster does a fantastic job of putting the pistol in the right place for me. When I have finished presenting, everything is just right.

The holster for the P365-XMacro arrived, and I configured it for OWB instead of IWB. The holster was still excellent, but I wasn’t totally satisfied with how the gun was presenting.

By the end of the first day of wearing it, I realized the hilt was tilted out about 40 degrees. It felt like it was flopping away out there.

With about 60 seconds with that powered screwdriver, I had reconfigured the holster. I moved the belt loops from the inside to the outside, then ran my belt through the loops and over the holster.

The holster now sits firm against my body. It is in the right place; it isn’t flopping around.

I just need to control myself so I don’t end up with a dozen holsters from them.

It is nice having a holster this comfortable.

I have a horrible habit of getting invested in something, learning the skill, then moving on to something else. A few years ago I decided to learn how to build a house.

The design was a 8×12 ft. hut with a loft. Instead of a peaked roof, it uses a sloped roof. The bottom floor has an 8 ft ceiling, and the loft is on 6 in joists with a 3 ft wall height (I think) on the low side and 4ft on the high side. It could be 4 and 5 but I didn’t measure today.

This was built on concrete blocks, so it is not a permanent structure. The loft doesn’t allow you to stand up right, so it isn’t a two story structure. Taxes are weird that way.

Because it was just a hut, I used 2×4 studs for the walls. The children got to pick the window sizes, a mistake on my part. After it was framed and the exterior cladding put on, we wrapped it. I used the rubber waterproofing where required. Then tarpaper for the roof. I built the door out of plywood and then put pine siding on. I think it is called shiplap.

The shiplap was resawn 2×6 because that was lower cost than buying the boards precut.

Then I ran out of money and time. To finish the exterior siding, I need to get the windows installed. I had intended to make the windows from scratch, but that never happened, and I was afraid of $500 window costs. So there the hut sat, used for storage and waiting for more attention.

When we had the new roof put on the house, I asked how much to put a roof on the hut. My roofers did the hut for no extra cost.

I decided to turn the hut into my woodworking shop for the winter. I moved the workbench to the hut, cleared out a bunch of garbage, measured the size of the front window, and got a quote.

The custom window is on its way. Once I have it installed, I’ll finish the siding on that wall. I’ve decided to put T1-11 on the two remaining walls and just cover up the two window openings. No big deal.

This leaves the problem that the hut will be damn cold in the winter. Temps around here often get down to below freezing. I want to be able to work out there.

Enter Rockwool insulation.

This stuff is pricier than old-fashioned pink, but man oh man, what a difference.

Instead of coming in a roll, it comes in 47″ batts. The batts that I purchased fit perfectly between studs on 16-in. centers. The thickness is almost exactly 3.5 inches, so it fits the voids between studs perfectly. For the voids that aren’t on 16″ centers, this stuff cuts easily with a standard knife.

I hate working with fiberglass insulation. I always end up with the itches and little fiberglass splinters. This stuff does create dust, but it is much less than fiberglass, and it doesn’t cause the same itching.

And it is R15; standard Owens Corning Pink is R11.

Just insulating the front wall has dropped road noise to almost nothing. What noise I do hear is coming from the window opening. That opening that is just house wrap now. I expect that to drop as well when we put the window in.

I’m going to be picking up another couple of batts of the stuff to finish out the first floor before doing the loft.

Oh, I have a military heater that I might use; if I don’t use that, it will be a small wood stove.

Rockwool does not burn or melt. Well, at less than around 2000°F. I’m going to put in a heat shield made of 20-gauge steel on 1 in. standoffs. That allows me to get my stove close to the wall. I don’t remember the distance, but 6 in. is what I expect it to be.

I’ll run single-wall flue up to the proper distance from the ceiling, put in an elbow, and then into double-wall flue. I’ll have a double-wall thimble through the wall into a T, then a double-wall flue up to the proper height.

The only issue is that double-wall flue is expensive.

I’ve talked about my Ceph cluster more than a bit. I’m sure you are bored with hearing about it.

Ceph uses two technologies to provide resilient storage. The first is by duplicating blocks, and the second is by Erasure coding.

In many modern systems, the hard drive controller allows for RAID configurations. The most commonly used RAID is RAID-0, or mirroring. Every block written is written to two different drives. If one drive fails, or if one sector fails, the data can be recovered from the other drive. This means that to store 1 GB of data, 2 GB of storage is required. In addition, the drives need to be matched in size.

Ceph wants at least 2 copies of each block. This means that to store 1 GB of data, 3 GB of storage is required.

Since duplicated data is not very efficient, different systems are used to provide the resilience required.

For RAID-5, a parity drive is added. When you have 3 or more drives, normally an odd number, one drive acts as a parity drive.

Parity is a simple method of determining if something was modified in a small data chunk. If you have a string of binary digits, 0xp110 1100 (a lowercase l in ASCII), the ‘p’ bit is the parity. We count the number of one bits in the byte and then set the p bit to make the count odd or even, depending on the agreement. If we say we are using odd parity, the value would be 0x1110 1100. There are 5 ones, which is odd.

If we were to receive 0x1111 1100, the parity would be even, telling us that what was transmitted is not what we received. A parity bit is described as single-bit detection, no correction.

Parity can get more complex, up to and including Hamming codes. A Hamming code uses multiple parity bits to create multi bit detection and one or more bit correction.

NASA uses, or used, Hamming codes for communications with distant probes. Because of limited memory on those probes, once data was transmitted, it wasn’t available to be retransmitted. NASA had to get the data right as it was received. By using Hamming codes, NASA was able to correct corrupted transmissions.

RAID-5 uses simple parity with knowledge of which device failed. Thus a RAID-5 device can handle a single drive failure.

So this interesting thing happened: the size of the drives got larger, and the size of the RAID devices got larger. The smart people claimed that with the number of drives in a RAID device, if a device failed, by the time the replacement device was in place, another drive would have failed.

They were wrong, but it is still a concern.

Ceph uses erasure coding the same way RAID uses parity drives, but erasure coding is more robust and resilient.

My Ceph cluster is set up with data pools that are simple replication pools (n=3) and erasure coded pools (k=2, m=2). Using the EC pools reduces the cost from 3x to 2x. I use EC pools for storing large amounts of data that does not change and which is not referenced often, such as tape backups.

The replication pools are used for things that are referenced frequently, where access times make a difference.

With the current system, I can handle losing a drive, a host, or a data closet without losing any data.

Which is good. I did lose a drive, I’ve been waiting to replace the dead drive until I had built out a new system. The new node was in the process of being built out when the old drive failed.

Unfortunately, I have another drive that is dying. Two dead drives is more than I want to have in the system. So I’ll be replacing the orginal dead drive today.

The other drive will get replaced next week.

Cold, wet weather practically demands chili. I love all kinds of chili. This is one I make around this time of year, because I can use fresh pumpkin rather than the canned stuff. It makes a huge difference!

Ingredients:

• 2 cans navy beans* OR 1 bag (soaked overnight)
• vegetable or chicken broth
• butter or margarine
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 can fire roasted stewed tomatoes
• 1 small can tomato sauce
• 1 tiny can chopped green chillies
• 1 “pie” pumpkin (small), roasted and the meat scraped out
• spices: coriander, cumin, garlic flakes, rosemary, chili powder, red pepper flakes, oregano, salt, pepper

If you want to make this vegan and gluten free, dump all of the above into a crockpot, put it on high, and cook for about 6 hours. Check the beans at the 4 hour mark and every hour thereafter. Cook until the beans are soft but not too mushy. Add in extra liquid if necessary. You can add heat to it with a hot sauce, or simply sprinkle with more red pepper flakes at the table.

If you want this to be meaty, I actually recommend ground turkey or chicken rather than beef for this one. You don’t want to overpower the flavor of the pumpkin, which ground beef will do. Instead, brown up your ground turkey or chicken, then add it in with the other ingredients.

When it comes to the *beans, you don’t have to use navy beans. Feel free to use whatever type or combination of types that you like. Because I want the pumpkin to shine through, I went with navy beans. You could use little white beans, kidney beans, black beans… it’s up to you. One bag of dried beans, soaked overnight, is equivalent to 2 of the big cans of beans, rinsed and dumped into the cooker.

Serve your chili with a side of cornbread, and top it with green onions, parsley, sour cream (or a dairy free alternative), and/or cheese. Enjoy!

We’ve talked elsewhere about making sure you don’t go shopping over the next couple of weeks, because some people have made what we consider to be credible threats. So here’s the thing… if you’re not already stocked up on canned goods at this point, you’re not ready.

Going out today to pick up a few things, that’s fine. I’m picking up “milk, bread, eggs” on Monday, in the morning when I can have Chris ride shotgun (literally). If something violent happens between now and then, I’ll bake bread, buy eggs from the lady up the street, and pull out the milk powder. We have toilet paper, cleaning supplies, food (fresh, frozen, canned, and dehydrated), oil and wood for heating, gas for the stove. I just picked up a zillion candles for free, and we have 2 big jugs of oil for our decorative (and very useful) oil lamps. The world can go to hell; we’ll be fine.

If your cupboard is bare, you’re too late. If you don’t have things squirreled away “just in case,”  you’re too late. I need to hammer that into everyone’s heads. The only excuse for not having a stash, at this point, is if you just started prepping in the past couple of months. Even then, if you’ve been reading my posts, ignorance is not an excuse. You KNOW.

Head on a swivel is not enough. If shit is going down, you’re not going shopping. You’re going to tell your spouse she can’t have the milk and eggs she wants. She’s going to make unhappy noises, and your life is going to be miserable. The fact that it’ll be short lived doesn’t mean a thing when you’re actually living it.

If you want food security, you have to make it. That means long term stuff like planting a garden, knowing how to hunt and trap, understanding how to dress and prepare meat for canning or the freezer. It means having canned goods on hand, stashed in a back corner or under a bed. It means having enough toilet paper or equivalent on hand so that you don’t have to be concerned. If you truly want to be prepared, and today is a good day to be prepared, then starting now is not good enough.

I am hoping that the people calling for riots and stealing are just making noise. I am preparing for them to be telling the absolute truth. If that means I don’t go shopping this week or next, we’ll be fine. Instead of beef tips and chicken breast, we’ll be eating tongue and heart and lots of soup over the next couple of weeks. But we have the food. Do you?

I found this one on TikTok, and decided to try it!

Ingredients:

• 4 chicken thighs, skin removed (bone in or out, doesn’t matter)
• 1.5 cups cherry tomatoes
• 3/4 cup green olives (no pimento)
• 1 shallot, sliced thinly
• 8 baby potatoes, quartered
• 8 to 10 whole cloves garlic
• 2 to 4 tbsp white wine (or white wine vinegar)
• 2 to 4 tbsp good quality olive oil
• 1 large sprig fresh rosemary, minced OR 2 tbsp dried rosemary
• 1 tbsp herbs de provence
• salt, to taste

Preheat your oven to 375°F.

In an oven-safe casserole dish with high sides, place your chicken thighs evenly in a single layer. Add the cherry tomatoes (whole) and olives (also whole) around the chicken. Add the shallot in a layer over everything, and the baby potatoes above the shallot. Tuck the garlic in between the potato pieces. Drizzle the wine and olive oil over everything, and then add your spices.

Bake your Poulet Provencal in the oven for 30 minutes, then check. Your chicken should register 165°F, and the potatoes should be ready to eat. If not, return the dish to the oven for 15 more minutes, checking every 5 minutes.

Serve with a side salad, or a nice crusty French bread. Your choice!

I run into things on TikTok and Facebook that are funny, sad, embarrassing, frustrating, and the whole gamut of other emotions. This one, though, hit home. It talks about something near and dear to my heart: going hungry. You can ask any of my friends, even at my poorest moments in the past 20 years, I have ALWAYS had a full fridge, freezer, and pantry. Always. If that meant I had to visit a food bank, so be it. I’ve been hungry before, and I never intend to be there again.

Take a pause and watch…

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I’ve tried drawing network maps a half-dozen times. I’ve failed. It should be simple, and I’m sure there are tools that can do it. I just don’t know them, or worse, I don’t know how to use the tools I currently have.

In simple terms, I have overlay and underlay networks. Underlay networks are actual physical networks.

An overlay network is a network that runs on top of the underlay/physical network. For example, tagged VLANs, or in my case, OVN.

OVN creates virtual private cloud. A powerful concept when working with cloud computing. Each VPC is 100% independent of every other VPC.

As an example, I have a VPC for my Ceph data plane. It is on the 10.1.0.0/24 network. I can reuse 10.1.0.0/24 on any other VPC with zero issues.

The only time there is an issue is when I need routing.

If I have a VPC with node 172.31.1.99 and a gateway of 172.31.1.1, that gateway performs network address translation before the traffic is sent to the internet. If the node at 172.31.1.99 wants to talk to the DNS server at 8.8.8.8 traffic is routed to 172.31.1.1 and from there towards the internet. The internet responds, the traffic reaches 172.31.1.1 and is forwarded to 172.31.1.99.

All good.

If I have VPC2 with a node at 192.168.99.31 and its gateway at 192.168.99.1, I can route between the two VPCs using normal routing methods by connecting VPC and VPC2. We do this by creating a connection (logical switch) that acts as a logical cable. We then attach gateway 172.31.1.1 to that network at 192.168.255.1 and the gateway at 192.168.99.31 as 192.168.255.2.

With a quick routing table entry, traffic flows between the two.

But if VPC2 was also using 172.31.1.0/24 then there is no way to send traffic to VPC. Any traffic generated would be assumed to live in that VPC. No router would become involved. And NAT will not help.

Why use an overlay network? It allows for stable virtual network, even if the underlay network is modified. Consider a node at 10.1.0.77. It has a physical address of 192.168.22.77. But because it needs to be moved to a different subnet, its physical address changes to 192.168.23.77.

Every node that had 192.168.22.77 within its configurations now needs to be updated. If the underlay is updated, it does not affect the overlay.

Back to Simple.

There are three methods for traffic to enter a VPC. The first is for a virtual machine to bind to the VPC. The second is for a router to move traffic into the VPC, sometimes from the physical network. And the final method is for a host (bare metal) machine to have a logical interface bound to the VPC.

My Ceph nodes use the last method. Each ceph node is directly attached to the Ceph VPC.

It is the gateway that is interesting. A localnet logical port can bind to a port on a host, called a chassis. When this happens, the port is given an IP address on the physical network that it binds to.

When the routing is properly configured, traffic to the VPC is routed to the logical router. This requires advertising the logical router in the router tables.

I had multiple VMs running on different host servers. They all sent traffic to the router which was bound to my primary machine. My primary machine has physical and logical difference from the rest of the host nodes.

What this meant was that traffic to the VPC was flaky.

Today, I simplified everything. I turned down the BGP insertion code. I added a single static route where it belonged. I moved the chassis to one of the “normal” chassis.

And everything just worked.

It isn’t dynamic, but it is working.

I’m happier.

When the grid fails, your calm mind might be the last light on. I know, it sounds cheesy, but it’s true. The idea of mental health in prepping is often relegated to a short oneliner: “Three months without hope.” Bam, done. Except it’s not done, and in many ways, mental health is something we ought to be paying a ton more attention to, and it’s also something we almost entirely ignore. Current prepper magazines and e-zines talk a lot about ammo, food, shelter, the Rule of Threes, types of firearms and other weapons, even first aid… but they don’t talk about what to do if someone’s mind breaks.

There are a handful of stories out there about preppers who went a little “funny” while getting anxious over expired food or having the right stuff in their go-bags. It’s definitely easy to let your anxiety run you down, especially if you’re actually IN an emergency already. Isolation is a huge contributor to mental health issues, and even if you have your family with you, bunker life or hunkering down at home is going to cause some problems. We know more about this than we should, thanks to the pandemic. With that in mind, we should be applying mental health prep to our general SHTF preparations. The topic deserves more than one line. We need to give mental health its proper focus, as an integral and continuing part of our everyday prepping activities.

The idea of a “loneliness spike” is not a new one. We know it from studying trauma after real disasters (Harvard study). We are aware of how insecurity and worry causes brain fog (Medical News Today). There are studies done on survivors of hurricanes and the prevalence of PTSD among them (National Institute of Health), where mental health issues can affect up to 30% of those who make it through. Then there’s the idea of survivor’s guilt, which is absolutely real and devastating, and something we know both from horrors like the Holocaust, and soldiers coming back from war, and even families caught in natural disasters. All of these problems are things that could and likely will happen in a SHTF scenario, and so we must begin to come up with methods to help minimize the trauma response. After all, you want the person who’s got your back to be sane… and they want the same thing.

So how do we minimize the kind of mental health problems we’re likely to see in a post-apocalypse or post-big-emergency world? Some of the most banal and stupid practices done in therapists offices around the world are the most effective. Breathing exercises (in for 4, hold for 4, out for 4, hold for 4), journaling positive things, active exercises just for the sake of doing it, avoiding reading the news (which may or may not be a problem come the apocalypse), and checking in on friends are all methods you can use to keep your panic down and your mental load a bit more healthy. Yes, the world may be falling to ruin around you, but if that’s your focus, you will go to ruin with it. The most resilient minds are the ones that can ignore “all that stuff out there” and instead focus on what can be done here and now.

Community is a big part of what keeps us on an even keel. Yes, the smallest community is your family, but at some point you have to reach beyond that. Human beings are meant to live in villages, and we need the company of others to keep us straight and sane. Whether you’re organizing a town meeting, bartering your skills for therapy (like in The Last Of Us), or having a sit down “come to Jesus” moment like an AA meeting, doesn’t really matter. It’s the doing that’s important, rather than what it is you’re doing. When paranoia is the word of the day, it’s going to be tough to reach out to people and form lasting connections, but it’s something that has to be done. If you can’t come to terms with doing it for yourself, think of doing it for the sake of your kids or your neighbors’ kids.

The big question is how to make the best SHTF armor possible, not just for the body, but for the mind as well. Group talks and forums can help, if there’s still internet to be had. But there are some really simple things you can do every day to make sure your mental health doesn’t become a liability. The first and most important thing is to get enough sleep. Obviously if you’re fighting zombies, that might get pushed back in priority… but only for a while. If you want to live rather than just survive, you’re going to have to get to a point where you can sleep on the regular. You have to get food into your body, too. Good quality food (even if it’s canned) is going to be a huge help in making you feel safe. Going for a walk, whenever it’s safe and possible, also helps, as does gardening (National Institute of Health).

So there you have it. Stock up your mental health preps right beside your beans. Be ready to surround yourself with the start of a community, and be prepared to keep building. Focus on the end goal, which is to thrive. Survival should only be your goal in the beginning. Once you’ve achieved survival, it’s time to live and thrive, to grow and heal. That’s your focus; a healthy, happy world for the children we bring into it. Don’t ignore mental health preps. We’ve seen what happens when you do (look “to the Left” for visual cues).