Laundry detergent is not the same as regular soap. There’s reasons for this, and they’re complex, but basically we are not made of cloth. We’re made of leather. Soap cleans leather just fine, but does less of a good job of cleaning cloth. If you want your clothing to be soft, clean, and to last for a long time, regular soap is not going to work. That said, in a pinch, you can absolutely clean your clothes with any regular soap bar. It will be very harsh on your clothing, and difficult to rinse out, so be prepared to do several rinse cycles.

I prefer liquid detergent, but we’ll start with powder because it’s easier.

Ingredients for powder laundry detergent:

• 1 bar Fels Naptha soap
• 2 cups Borax
• 2 cups washing soda

Start by grating up your soap. You want to grate it into very small pieces. You can do this by hand with a regular cheese grater, but it takes a long time. You can also do it in your food processor by cutting the soap into one inch cubes and then pulsing them until they’re in “smaller than pea” size pieces. I prefer to grate mine.

Mix together all the ingredients in a container that’s about 1/3 larger than your batch, and mix it well by stirring with a wooden spoon and shaking it. This is a great project for kids to help with, as you can seal the detergent into the container and then let them toss it around. You need to use a glass or hard plastic container, and not the softer “recyclable” containers you may have on hand. The lid also must seal tightly, or your detergent will clump horribly.

To use, add 2 tablespoons of powder to the drum of your washer (front loading or top loading). Do not add it to the automatic dispenser, as it will clump and block things up. For very large loads, you may need an extra tablespoon. For hand washing, dissolve 1 tablespoon of powder into a cup of hot water, then pour that into your wash water after the detergent has dissolved.

If you would like to have stinky laundry (ie you’re one of those folks who like scented detergent), simply add several drops of your favorite essential oil to the dry ingredients, and stir until it’s all incorporated.

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This is a beautiful piece of furniture. I made a workbench.

The beauty of this bench is such that I would be afraid to use it. It is that darn beautiful.

My bench is 60″ by 27″ by 34.5″ It was made from construction lumber, 2x10s, 2x4s, and 4x4s. Now that it is done, I don’t know that I can move it. It is that heavy. I might have to get retractable wheels for it.

This is the basic starting tool for woodworking. Until you have a chance to work on a real workbench, designed for hand tools, you don’t understand just how much of a tool it is.

For years, my goto woodworking bench was a sheet of 3/4″ plywood over a frame of 2x4s. It was stable enough, but it wasn’t really usable for planing.

There are several things that hand woodworkers do constantly. We saw boards either ripping, resawing, or crosscutting. Cutting tenons is an example of both. We drive chisels into wood and dig out mortises. We make boards flat and straight by planing.

If you swing a mallet and hit something and your mallet bounces, that is wasted energy. A solid workbench doesn’t bounce; it acts perfectly with the mallet, allowing hard strikes or controlled strikes.

If you are planing you need the work to stay in place. If you have your work attached to a flimsy work surface, every time you take a cut, the work and work surface move, stealing work. If you brace your foot against your work surface, you are unlikely to be in the correct position for planing.

If you are sawing, you want the work at the height at the correct angles.

Adding a leg vise to the bench will make it even better. That is happening over the coming days.

I’ll be drilling some holes for bench dogs and other work-holding tools.

So here is the astonishing thing: I had a round item on the workbench, I was planing a test piece. That round item did not move.

The number of times I’ve had things fall off a table because it is wiggling…

I’m excited.

Conclusion

The next steps are to make and attach a leg vise to the table. After that is adding some blocks to the underside of the table where I’ll be drilling 3/4″ holes for the work-holding thing.

There are two projects that come next: a journeyman tote to carry my tools and a 6-board chest for Ally for use at events.

After that is a knockdown cabinet with shelves for Ally to use at events.

Side Note

I was picking up some stair treads at Home Depot on Tuesday. As we were checking out we noticed a sale on the Husky 5-tier tote storage rack. The totes are 27 gallons with the nice flexible plastic. Each rack holds 8 totes by their upper edges and two more can be placed on top for a total of 10 totes.

The totes were on sale for $8 apiece. The rack was $149.

If you are looking for more storage, this might be the right thing for you.

You’ve seen pics of me. I obviously like food. However, I’m trying to be a lot healthier in what I’m eating. I love sweet treats, and if I could tolerate dairy, I could be happy with the occasional yogurt. However, dairy free yogurt is twice as expensive, and the cups are usually smaller. It’s a sad thing. That’s when I ran across this chia seed stuff.

So before you ask, yes, this is the same type of seed you used to smear on clay figurines in the 70’s and 80s (ch ch ch chia!). However, instead of growing them, you’re going to be eating them. It sounds odd, I know, but they’re cheap, and when they’re soaked overnight, they’re really tasty!

This recipe makes a single serving, so feel free to upscale as much as you like!

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp chia seeds
• 1/2 cup coconut milk (or any other milk or milk substitute)
• 1 tbsp honey (or other sweetener of choice)
• 1 tsp cocoa powder

Put all of the ingredients into a jar or other container with a lid, and whisk together well. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then whisk again, as sometimes the seeds or the cocoa can clump. Cover the container and put it in the fridge for at least two hours, and best overnight. Before serving, top it with a bit of fresh fruit or whatever you like!

It really is that simple, and it’s tasty. Just be careful to mix, let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes, then mix again. The seeds make a sort of gel around themselves (which makes them sort of like mini tapioca balls when you eat it), and so once that begins to happen they are easier to stir.

For those who are diet conscious, the above comes out to about 200 calories, 5g protein, 9g fat, and 28g carbs (but with a whopping 9g of fiber, which makes your net carbs only 19). A fairly balanced dessert!

One of the big things I worry about if the SHTF is hygiene. When you have less access to good quality running water, keeping clean becomes not just a personal choice, but an absolute necessity. Soap and water are your greatest armor against disease and septic injuries. But if you can’t run down to the corner store for soap, what do you do?

Of course you could just stock a 20 year pile of soap. It’s not that expensive. It does, however, take up space. The better choice is to store enough for a year, which gives you enough time to get settled and create the parts you need to make your own soap with nothing but stuff you’d nominally throw away anyhow.

Soap History

There’s a story about how soap was “discovered” in ancient Rome. It goes like this… Along a particular stream in Rome, women used to wash their clothes. The clothing was beaten against rocks, then rubbed with sand. They’d then submerge the clothing and let it sit in the running water, smaller stones holding it in place, until they figured they were clean. Then the clothes would be pulled out, wrung out, and hung to dry back at their homes. In one particular place along that stream, the clothing was MUCH more clean.

Apparently, upstream from the women, there was a place where they rendered fat. Some of the animal fat dripped into the water. It was enough that it created a sheen on top of the water. A little closer to the ladies was a spot where people would dump their ashes from their wood fires. That gave them the basic recipe for soap: water, fat, and lye (derived from wood ash) equals basic soap. The reason the women in that one spot had cleaner clothes is that they were using a rudimentary form of soap in the water to do their washing.

All that’s a story, of course. But it’s indeed plausible. It’s the sort of thing that happens. Making usable soap for your home is not quite so easy, of course, but it’s still possible. The first part of the process is to create the lye that is the base of your soap.

PLEASE NOTE THAT LYE IS CAUSTIC. IT CAN AND WILL BURN YOU IF YOU DON’T PAY FULL ATTENTION. ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR WHEN MAKING OR USING LYE, OR ANY OTHER CAUSTIC AGENT!

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I would call this a pesto but it isn’t actually pesto. There’s no Parmesan cheese, and no pine nuts. On the other hand, it’s healthy, and ZOMG so good. I made this two nights in a row, once over gnocchi, and once with chicken and veg, and it was just incredible. This is the chicken version.

Ingredients:

• 1 oz fresh basil leaves
• 1/2 cup cashew yogurt or Greek yogurt (plain)
• 1/4 cup nutritional yeast
• 1/4 cup tahini
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp pepper
• 6 oz chicken per person, cubed
• 1/2 red onion, rough chopped
• 6 large mushrooms, sliced thick
• 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 handful spinach

In a blender or food processor, add the basil, yogurt, yeast, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper, and pulse until thoroughly mixed. If it is too thick, add a drizzle of either milk or a non-dairy milk substitute (oatmilk or soy milk). Set aside or refrigerate until ready to use.

In a large pan, saute your chicken until it’s browned. Add in the onions and mushrooms, and cook until the onions soften and the mushrooms have released their liquid. Add in the tomatoes and spinach at the end of the cooking time for just a minute or two. Turn off the heat, and add the creamy basil sauce. Stir to incorporate it evenly.

This can be served as is, or over pasta or rice. It’s quite good over potatoes, too. I would actually love this over cold pasta as a pasta salad!

For lack of a nail and all of those things. Never a truer statement was made.

I have three workbenches in the shop. One is filled with machining detritus. It always needs to be cleaned up. The second currently is full with a mini-mill and storage containers that are waiting to be placed on the wall. The third is the grinding station with two bench grinders. One wheel is accessible because have the bench is blocked by wood that is waiting for a home.

Moreover, none of these workbenches are set up to be used for wood working. There is a copper jawed vise on the machining workbench. That workbench is a 24-inch by 96 sheet of 3/8 inch plywood atop a pair of 2x4s resting on a pair of folding saw horses.

If I bang on it, everything on the table jumps.

The mini workbench is stable enough, but it is set up for electronics work, doesn’t yet have good lighting, It is only 60-inches long, no vise and no room for working on longer boards.

The third is in a corner with no real access.

Thus, the new workbench.

Joinery

I’m sure this could be knocked together in a couple of days, but that’s not me.

For the first trestle, I did knock it together. Construction adhesive and good old fashion screws. It was strong enough, but not pretty, and I can see my errors today.

The end apron, a piece of 2×10 by 24 inches cupped. I didn’t understand what this really meant when I put that apron on.

The difference between knowledge and skill.

It took me almost two weeks to get the braces cut. Some of that was plain stupid choices in my past. I didn’t have a saw that would for cutting the tenons.

Mostly, it was lack of skill and rain.

I’ve gathered more knowledge and a bit more skill.

To get good joints, you need to have flat, smooth, square connections. I didn’t have that.

Smoothing

I’ve located some 5 wood planes so far. I knew of 2 of them, I suspected 1 more. I found 3 more after that. I also picked up 3 planes for a few dollars each, used.

That’s a total of 8 planes. Two block planes, Four #4 style planes. One #5 plane. One jointer, I think it is a #8 or #9.

One of the #4s is a piece of junk. It is stamped steel for the frog. Even after spending a couple of hours working on it, it doesn’t cut worth a damn. The second #4 isn’t ready yet. It has so much paint and gunk on the sole, that I haven’t gotten it ready yet. The third is a new Stanley #4. I’ve not checked it out yet.

That leaves one, #4. It is an older Stanley with a slightly cupped sole, but I have it mostly tuned, and it is doing its job of smoothing.

I realized that the #5, jack plane, hadn’t been checked since I purchased it 30 years ago. It needed sharpening, but is now doing a fine job.

Those two and a block plane I was playing with are all work ready.

This gets me smooth boards.

Flat

A smooth board is one that doesn’t have any roughness, but it might not be straight nor flat.

To make it flat, you need to test for flatness with a straight edge. Using an expensive Starrett combination square for woodworking messes with my head. I have multiple combination squares, but this one is my nicest.

You can have a board that is very smooth, but which undulates the length of the board. A longer plane, like a jack plane, will help with that, but ultimately, you need to locate those undulations with your straight edge.

After making sure your board is smooth, you set to work with your straight edge to find and mark all the high spots.

Knocking down the high spots will make the board flat. Using a longer plane will help isolate where you are cutting to just high spots.

The problem is that the longer the plane, the more work it is to use. They get heavy and that means more work. They also don’t cut as fast because they can only shave the high spots in that longer distance.

I am to the point where I can do this. I have the skill to make a board smooth and to remove the high spots.

This leaves the board with one more potential issue, twist.

Twist

Just because your board is smooth and flat in a local area does not mean it is flat over a longer distance.

This requires a different tool to measure.

The winding sticks.

Winding sticks are two sticks that can stand on edge, have tops that have the same angle relative to their bottoms.

Think of them as thick rulers that can be easily balanced on edge.

The sticks are placed near the ends of the board, across the board.

You then lower your eye, watching for the far stick to disappear behind the near stick.

If the sticks are parallels, then the far stick should disappear at once. If there is any twist, one end will disappear before the other.

That indicates that the other side is high, relative to the near stick.

This tells you where to remove wood to remove the twist.

As long as the sticks have the same angle, relative to their bases, then this works great.

So I need winding sticks to finish prepping my apron boards.

Making Winding Sticks

Simple, plane one face of a 4×1 by 16 inches smooth. Make it flat, ignore minor twist. I.e., get it as flat as you can without winding sticks.

Now hold the board on its edge and plane the other edge smooth and square to the major face. Then flip it over and do the same for the other edge.

You require a square to make sure that the edge is perpendicular to the face.

This requires holding the board on edge. Except I don’t have a vise to clamp the board on edge.

We’ll assume I can solve that with a wedge board, later.

Once you have both edges square to the face, use your marking gauge (you do have a marking gauge? If not, stop now and make one.) to find the narrowest part of the board. Use that to strike a line (another skill) from one end to the other.

Now plane the board to that line. When you are done, if you have done everything well, you will have two smooth edges, square to the face, and parallel to each other.

At this point, use your marking gauge to find the center of the board. You can do this by eye, actually. Still another skill.

Stroke a line down the center, carry it to the back of the board, maintaining your registration on the same reference edge.

Now rip the board into two equal, or nearly equal, halves. Still another skill I have to learn.

That’s where my bandsaw comes into play. That is what I will use instead of a hand saw. I don’t have the vise to rip safely and easily.

Find the narrowest part of both boards with your marking gauge. Strike that line. Plane down to the line.

When done, you will have two boards that should be the same. You can joint them to make sure, this is the best thing to do.

If you joint them, make sure you mark the matching ends so that you can easily find them again.

You now have your winding sticks. To make it a bit better, darken the top edge of one of the sticks, to create contrast when you are using them.

Notch Board

Another tool. Find a 1×6 about 12 inches long. Find the center and mark a point 4 inches from one end at that center.

Drop lines from a point 1 inch in from the edges to the center marked point.

Now drill a 1/4 inch hole at the center point.

Rip cut from the end to the hole. This will create a V notch, 3.5 inches wide at the mouth and just a 1/4 wide at the throat.

You can now attach this V notch board to the surface of your workbench near the left end, or in my case, one of my apron boards, with the notch facing the center of the board.

You can now place almost any board, on edge, and jam it into that notch. The notch will hold the board upright, on edge.

Now just plane to the lines.

Conclusion

I’m having a blast turning knowledge into skills. This is my daily exercise. I figure that by the end of today, I should have the second trestle completed.

While the adhesive is drying, I will plane the two apron boards smooth and flat, ready to be attached to the legs, which I have already planed smooth and flat.

Maybe I’ll have something good to report by Friday.

My father was a woodworker. He made beautiful furniture. I have a couple of pieces he made.

His primary tool was the radial arm saw. He also had a hand drill. Everything else he did by hand. I wish I had learned more from him.

I think it was one of his quiet hobbies. Later, he became obsessed with model railroads, doing incredible things with them. He is actually published for his work on model railroading.

His skills didn’t seem to pass to me. It is/was so bad that I didn’t do woodworking until I had power tools and a place for them.

One of the basic tasks of wood working is sawing. This is rather simple. Move the saw back and forth in a straight line.

Yeah, not so much.

You have to cut a straight line, without a curve in it. That straight line must be in the correct place. It must not be tilted.

I think 3 degrees of freedom in that sawing.

So how the heck do you saw something correctly? And what the heck do you do when you have to “rip” a piece of wood that is 6 foot long? Or even harder, resaw something that is 6 foot long?

You start with the correct tools. With saws, there are a lot of them. But the real starting point is the marking gauge.

Instead of just marking the line you are cutting, you mark the sides as well. This will give you a visual of where you are supposed to be cutting.

Next, put your pencil aside. Use a marking knife instead. First, it gives a cleaner mark. Second, it is easier to transfer a knife line around a corner.

If you are working on light wood, you can then use that pencil to make that knife mark easier to see.

Finally, for precision work, make a knife wall. This is an artificial kerf. It makes a physical stop for the edge of your saw blade. Now, when you start sawing, your saw is already in a kerf. If you carry the knife wall down the sides, it will help to keep your saw properly aligned.

So that marking knife, a good combination square or try square, a metal ruler, and a good bench chisel are required.

The next thing to look at is the types of saws that are available, and what they are used for.

There are more than you can shake two sticks at. And each saw does a different task.

I’m going to focus on straight cuts and ignore Japanese pull saws.

Saws can be cross-cut, rip cut, or a combination cut. A combination cut saw does a poor job of both ripping and cross-cutting. But it can be handy when you don’t know which you will need.

Cross-cut blades are designed to cut across the wood fibers. Rip saws are for cutting with the fibers.

Normally, we want cross-cuts to be smooth. Smooth means more teeth per inch. More teeth per inch means smaller gullets. Smaller gullets mean slower cutting.

If we have two saws with the same level of sharpness, assume “very” sharp. The one with fewer teeth per inch will cut faster. The reason is the gullets.

The gullet is the space between the teeth. When you are pushing a saw forward, each tooth is cutting a small shaving from the wood.

That shaving has no place to go. It has to travel with the saw blade as it moves forward. The only place it can travel is in the gullet.

As the blade exits the wood, the wood that is traveling in the gullet drops free.

When enough wood dust/chips have built up in the gullet, the tooth can no longer cut and collect more wood shavings.

With fewer teeth, there is less room for wood shavings. The gullets fill up faster and the saw stops cutting.

There is so much more to this. I thought I had a better understanding.

In trying to explain it in this article, I figured out that I didn’t know enough.

I’m not a huge fan of hash, to be honest. However, I am a BIG fan of using up leftovers. The other day when it was hot, I used our Westinghouse to cook up a whole turkey (it was small, only 15 lbs or so). I’ve been using it in sandwiches and salads since last week, which has saved us turning the stove on during hot weather. As with Thanksgiving turkey, after a while you tend to run out of the usual leftover turkey dishes. I was looking for something different but yummy, and this was the recipe I found. This is my take on one by DownShiftOlogy. It was so delicious that we’ve decided to make it again, and soon! This dish serves two people.

Ingredients:

• 1 medium or a couple of small red potatoes
• olive oil
• 1 small yellow or red onion, in half circles
• 2 green onions, sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 cup cooked turkey, diced finely
• ½ cup thick sliced mushrooms (optional)
• ½ cup rough diced bell peppers (optional)
• 1-½ tsp finely chopped fresh thyme (or ½ teaspoon dried thyme)
• salt and pepper to taste
• 4 eggs

Cook your potatoes until they are barely soft. I did mine in the microwave, but you can easily use leftover potatoes, or even frozen hash browns for this. Dice the potatoes into small pieces, about a half inch square. I like the skin; your mileage may vary. Feel free to discard it if you wish.

Oil a large cast iron (or other) pan and add in the onions and potatoes, and cook until the onions begin to soften. Add in the mushrooms and bell pepper, if you will be using them. Continue to cook until the mushrooms are soft and cooked. You want to leave the contents of the pan in a single layer, as much as possible, and don’t touch them for about four to five minutes. This lets the bottom get crispy and golden.

Add in the green onion and garlic, and gently stir. Cook for another minute or two. Add in the turkey and spices. Saute for another five to ten minutes, or until everything is thoroughly warmed.

In another non-stick pan, cook two eggs per person. These can be fried or poached, as you wish. Keep the yolks soft, unless you have picky eaters who simply can’t tolerate it.

Serve up on a plate with half of the hash and the two eggs on top. There’s no need for toast, with this meal, but it’s a welcome addition if you have some.

Notes:

If you like spicy, sprinkle the entire plate with a good quality sriracha. This adds both color and flavor, as well as a dash of heat.

This hash is lightly based off an African dish called shakshuka. You can find it here, if you’d like to check it out!

Last year, I purchased a Sig P365 XMacro. This is the “large” version of the P365, longer barrel, and a 17 round mag.

It turns out that my nephew wanted the same pistol, having looked at mine, he offered to buy it.

Being a good uncle, I sold it to him at my cost, plus shipping to his local FFL.

Because I was selling it so close to the time I had purchased the gun, we figured the safe thing to do was to send it to his local FFL for the 4473 BS.

The day I shipped it, I knew I had made a mistake. I really wanted that pistol, it felt good in my hand. It pointed like my 1911s. It rang steel.

One issue I have with it, is the magazines. This is a double stacked, single feed magazine. It holds 17 rounds, but the grip is narrow compared to most other double stacked pistols, my Glock and H&K for example.

You cannot load this without a reloading tool. I could get maybe 12 rounds into it before it would become too difficult to do with just my thumb, I could not get 17 rounds into it with just my thumb.

Even with the reloading tool, that final round is a bitch. I hold the magazine flat on the table, slap the tool hard to make room for that final round, then slip it under the feed lips. Without the tool, this is a 15 round magazine. Still better than regular 7 round 1911 mags, or 8 round extended 1911 mags.

So I’m in the process of changing out my EDC pistol. The holster system is the same as I use for the 1911s, but because the Sig weighs less, there is less pulling that side of my pants low. I’ll be picking up a mag holder shortly.

Currently, I’ve got an Alien Gear IWB Cloak Tuck. It has the same adjustments as the Shapeshifter system I use for my other pistols. The difference is in the retention system, the shell doesn’t move to other backers (OWB, Appendix, Shoulder, or paddle), it is only an IWB, and it is slightly slimmer than the Shapeshifter shells.

It isn’t all that difficult to go from 8+1 and a mag to 17+1 with no quick access mags.

Over the coming weeks I’ll do some range time to become comfortable drawing, presenting and hitting what I aim for.

Exciting times.